Monday, May 31, 2010

Beauty is in the eye of the Stroller:

Calling all visitors to Cape Town... Fancy walking in the foothills of the Himalayas or Andes for a paltry 25 Rand - the price of a sandwich? You can leave home at a not too disagreeably early hour and be back home in time for tea.

Of course I'm joking, but a day's hike in the extraordinary Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve - an hour and a bit outside Cape Town - comes pretty close to delivering such a massive mountain hiking experience: huge, straining peaks and tumbling river valleys against a backdrop of silvery blue sky.

And then there's the plants.

Kogelberg is at the heart of the Cape Floral Kingdom, a unique sliver of vegetation restricted to South Africa's Cape region.

Compared to other global plant powerhouses - the Holarctic Kingdom covers most of the Northern Hemisphere - the modestly-sized CFK is only the size of Portugal but contains 1 in 5 of every plant in Africa (including 50% of those found south of the Zambezi) and is the most diverse of all the 6 floral kingdoms, even pushing the tropical rainforests into second place.

The Cape Floral Kingdom is made up of a number of biomes - areas of environment-adapted vegetation - of which the fynbos (Dutch for 'fine bush' - named after the small, needle-like leaves characteristic of much of the flora) is by far the largest.

Essentially a mix of shrubby ericas (heathers) and bushy proteas plus the reed-like restios, the fynbos is also packed full of some of the most bizarre-looking plants you'll see.

Fleshy-leaved stalks finish with a startling flourish of colour; wildly extravagant bushes burst into sunshine yellow flowers; alien-looking orchids and lilies push their way out of the sand - it's an explosion of colour and form that is utterly bewildering.

Equally as jaw-dropping is the endemism involved: of the fynbos' 9 000 or so species, some 70% are found nowhere else - and in the Kogelberg Reserve a handful of plants are restricted to just a few boggy mountain tops.

What does all this mean? Well, see for yourself - it's easy enough. Take the ridiculously scenic R44 - Clarence Drive - from Gordon's Bay to Kleinmond on the other side of Cape Town's False Bay.

Try not to steer the car off the road as you gape at the sea views, pass Betty's Bay and turn inland on a signposted gravel road a kilometre before the Palmiet River dam.

It's pretty quiet around these parts. The official at the entrance gate was fast asleep when I arrived and the only sounds were the distant artillery-like rumbling of the ocean and over-excited birds in full song.

There are various trails - some a couple of hours; others a full day's hike. I set off on the latter, a 24km circuit that takes you on a most extraordinary journey: damp valleys, silent, sun-dappled forests, steep slopes and wide, tumbling rivers.

It was about 6 hours before I saw anyone - 2 walkers with whom I swopped cheery hellos and how fars - and that was it for the whole day. No radio masts, no pylons, no vehicles - just endless views and captivating scenery.

That's not to say I was entirely alone: the path is scored with animal tracks - antelope, porcupine and the heart-fluttering sight of perhaps a Cape Leopard's pawprint.

A pained squeal alerted me to the presence of baboons and sure enough there they were, a troop down in the river bed casually stripping the fibrous skin off a stand of sedges and chewing the stalks like sugar cane.

I thought I had their number and settled down to spy on them, until my binoculars took me into the yellow eyes of a pair of enormous males who had (predictably) spotted me long before I had seen them and were watching me carefully; one with a long white cigarette-like stalk hanging casually from its mouth like a 1930s New York cop.

Adopting primate decorum, I lowered my gaze and walked on and the 2 hairy security men stretched back in the sun and resumed chewing.

Don't expect vast, milling herds of animals: the fynbos sits on ancient, sandy, wind and sun-blasted soil - and the result is a low animal biomass (the big stuff used to live in the neighbouring Renosterveld before its fertile soils were ploughed up for wheat and apples).

The Kogelberg is however great for birds, or at least some highly endemic species. In fact, nearly every bird I saw was either unique to the fynbos or to Southern Africa - and the lack of disturbance means that the birds seem bolder and more conspicuous - maybe I'd just had too much coffee.

A neatly painted house - the park ranger's cottage - peered around the corner as the late afternoon sun covered the mountains in shady swathes of purple - the end of the trail.

I can't say I wasn't looking forward to putting my feet up for a bit - although the hike doesn't involve any serious climbing, it's 8 hours on the go - and I wouldn't particularly want to be marooned up there at night.

The Kogelberg may be eminently accessible from South Africa's 2nd largest city but it was starting to look mighty wild up there as the sun's warmth ebbed.

The car park was deserted, as it was when I arrived. I sat for a while and watched birds flitting and darting about like garden fairies on whirring wings. Strands of silvery spider web drifted past on a breeze and the air seemed to glow - a fitting final chapter to a magical destination.

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Thursday, May 6, 2010

Cape Town Festivals and Events

Cape Town is a spectacular destination to visit at any time of the year, combining natural splendour and vibrant local culture, a buzzing nightlife with a fascinating recent history. But it is also notable for the sheer number of festivals and events that take place all throughout the year. Here are a few of the highlights to watch out for on your Cape Town holiday...

For Sports Enthusiasts...

There's one event that a sports nut on holiday in Cape Town won't want to miss out on. The Cape Argus Cycle Tour is the world's biggest cycle race, with over 40,000 amateur and professional cyclists taking part each year. Starting in the centre of town, the 109 kilometre route passes through the highlights of the local scenery, including False Bay, Chapmans Peak, and Suikerbossie Hill, before finally ending up in the Green Point district of Cape Town. It is one of the most beautiful cycle rides in the world, held on the second Sunday in March every year - book your place early if you want to take part!

If you are a runner rather than a cyclist, the Two Oceans Marathon could be your event of choice. Taking place on Easter Sunday and following the stunning scenery of the Cape Peninsula, this is known as "the world's most beautiful marathon." The main event is a 56 kilometre ultramarathon that runs from Greenlands to the Cape Town university, but there is also a half marathon and a number of fun runs for those who want to run a shorter distance.

For the Party Crowd...

One New Years' Celebration not enough to you? In Cape Town, they celebrate the New Year two days in a row! Taking place on the 2nd of January, Tweede Nuwe Jaar (also known as Kaapse Klopse) is a celebration unique to Cape Town. Originally a celebration held by freed slaves, the event has evolved into a colourful carnival, featuring live music, dance, food and drink stalls, as rival troupes from different parts of town compete to put on the very best show.

For the Fashionistas...

If you you are planning on having a Cape Town holiday and know your Gucci from your Gautier, try and time your visit with Cape Town Fashion Week. Held in late August, it showcases the best local design talent in a proudly African week of fashion, eschewing the big name international designers and focusing instead on homegrown talent and practical fashion.

For Gourmets...

If good food and fine wines are your thing, make sure you start you South African holiday in Cape Town. The Cape Times V&A Waterfront Wine Affair, held over three days in early May, is a showcase of over 70 vineyards, held in a picturesque waterfront location, giving visitors to sample the very best South African wines.

Another essential event is the Cape Gourmet Festival, a fortnight of culinary events focusing on wine, spirits, and traditional South African food that concludes with The Good Food and Wine Show on the last weekend of the festival.

Whether you are a sports nut, a discerning gourmet, a fashion fan, or are just looking for a good party, your are sure to find a festival to suit your taste, so make sure you time your Cape Town holiday to coincide with one of these great events.